Wednesday, March 3, 2010

On Tapenade


Tapenade is one of the first things I learned to make in Garde Manger ("Cold Kitchen"), the class wherein we learned about pates, terrines, and other applications fit for fine buffet service. After years of making this, I've come up with a few twists on the original concept.

Olives - I use a mix of pitted Kalamata olives plus some sort of pitted green olive. It makes for a more interesting taste and appearance. The briny nature of the Kalamatas is off-set nicely by the more fruity essence of green olives.

Anchovies - I don't use them. Not everyone likes them, and I realized that I could accommodate die-hard vegans simply by omitting them. They do have a very strong taste and add a lot of sodium.

Salt - lightly, if at all! Just a TINY extra bit of salt can make the mixture nearly inedible.

Mortar and Pestle, or Food Processor? - Food Processor wins hands down! For best results, pulse the olives, just by themselves, in the processor for a little bit before adding any other ingredients (garlic, thyme, olive oil, capers, etc.) - if there are ANY pits that didn't get properly removed, they will be detectable by listening closely ... their presence will be betrayed by an unpleasant clacking sound against the blade!