Why I don't make my own puff pastry

"DON'T YOU EVER, EVER FAKE IT!!!"

The Pastry Chef-Instructor - a former wrestler and Marine - was right up in my face.

"IF YOU DON'T KNOW HOW TO DO SOMETHING ... ASK! GET INSTRUCTIONS! BUT DON'T EVER FAKE IT!"

In fact I had just badly messed up some bear claws that we'd been working on. I hadn't paid attention to the demo and now it was time to pay for my lack of focus.

I'm a good cold- and hot-line cook. I'm good with a variety of savory cooking applications.

But I'm just not a baker ... a common Achilles' heel in savory cooks. Which is why I don't make my own puff pastry. Why should I, when plenty of top-quality products are available, ready-to-use?

I did wind up passing the class. The Chef-Instructor was tough, but fair, and he gave me other chances to work hard and redeem myself. Ultimately, I learned to respect baking and pastry ... and stick to what I'm good at!

Still want to make your own puff pastry dough? Check out this recipe, and knock yourself out.

Louis XIII

"Would you like to try some Louis XIII cognac?"

Would I?

Does a duck swim?

Frank J. poured me a nice glass of this famous cognac. I'd had it only once before, at a Walnut Creek's "Le Virage" ... sadly, long-defunct. Seeing as how I'm not King Midas, I hadn't expected to taste this luxury of luxuries for years to come, and Frank's offer was a welcome surprise.

Louis XIII is made by Remy Martin. Frank is an educator, with years of top-notch experience and education, employed by Remy Martin. We met a an event where he was providing an educational presentation on cocktails, drinks (there's a difference!), and their components. Before the night was through I'd learned that Louis XIII is among the world's original luxury goods ... long before newcomers like Lamborghini and Rolex came on the scene.

It went down with ultra-smoothness - no wonder, the oldest cognac mixed in with this batch dated from 1900! I'm typically a monk when I'm working, not touching anything stronger than water, but this was an exception that couldn't be passed up. And with no consequences ... it was mellow, not hard-hitting, and I was able to work without any hint of haziness. It conveyed an impeccable warmth, with no ill-effects at all.

A real treat. Thanks, Frank.

Cayenne-infused Vinaigrette

I enjoy the art of making a good sauce, but wanted something different as a means of finishing a plate-up and enhancing the flavor of the dish. I served seared halibut with saffron risotto, squash, rapini, and chanterelles. Typically I might serve a white wine reduction finished with some cream and butter - however, the client specifically asked for something without a lot of cream.

I like using vinaigrettes ... the acid content helps brighten up an otherwise rich plate. I wanted this vinaigrette to have a little zip. I wanted sweetness to accompany the fish, so I opted for a balsamic vinaigrette.

I obtained a fresh cayenne pepper at a local grocery store. I split the pepper in half lengthwise and crushed the fleshy part with the blunt back of a knife blade. This was to release some of the crucial oils in the pepper so they'd be more accessible.

I put the slightly-crushed pepper halves into the vinaigrette. I completed this step before I got into any other prep and production ... this gave the pepper time to macerate in the vinaigrette. By the time I was ready for plate-up, I tasted it and it was pretty much where I wanted it to be - the sweetness of the balsamic vinegar was dominant, but in the back of the mouth I caught some of the essence of the pepper's fire. The client loved it!

A short shelf-life but a merry one ...

Well, like an addict I can't pass by a pawpaw, even if the thing is about to turn black from old age - which sneaks up on these treats mighty fast. Generally, I eat as little fruit as possible but these things are great. I'm a sucker for their custard-like taste and consistency and vaguely floral aroma.

Confusingly enough, some think that the word "pawpaw" comes from the word "papaya". Supposedly of Southern/Midwestern origin, I'm not sure where my local Farmer's Market acquired their specimens. A couple of times a year I'll run across them, and in fact it's rare if they are available two weeks in a row.

An admission ... I haven't kept any of them around the house long enough to do any recipe experimentation with these fruits. I advise all who can find them to buy at least one, eat it QUICKLY, and see why I took up a whole blog entry to rave about pawpaws.

On BBQ Sauce

Making BBQ sauce is neither difficult nor especially complex, but there are certain requirements. One must keep an eye on the temperature and not allow the mixture to scorch. As with any other sauce, I think it should be strained before use.

Here's a recipe that deliberately does NOT include measurements, in keeping with the somewhat rustic nature of the subject.

INGREDIENTS:
- Tomatoes, diced (fresh or canned)
- Tomato Paste
- Chipotle peppers in Adobo
- Dijon Mustard
- Assorted berries (particularly blackberries, blueberries, and strawberries)
- Brown Sugar
- Red Wine
- Soy sauce
- Red Onions
- Garlic

DIRECTIONS:
Add the diced tomatoes to a large pot, preferably with a heavy bottom (a thin-bottomed pot will transfer too much heat and could result in scorched product). Heat the pot + tomatoes over medium-high heat. Stir occasionally.

When the tomatoes come to a simmer, add all the other ingredients, mix in thoroughly, and return to a simmer. Turn heat down to low and allow to simmer slowly, stirring occasionally, for at least an hour (the longer the better, but as always make sure you stir it enough so that the bottom does not scorch!).

If you walk away, get a phone call, or otherwise forget and scorching DOES occur, transfer the contents ASAP to a new pot ... don't scrape up any of the material from the bottom. That scorched taste can "bloom" with cooking, lending an unpleasant burnt/bitter taste to the whole thing, so be careful.

When the mixture is done, taste it. Is the flavor not very distinguished? It may need some salt, or a little more soy sauce. Is it too thin? It may need more tomato paste. Too hot? Add more sugar. Too sweet? Add some hot sauce or pepper flakes. You get the idea.

Working in batches, and with lots of towels handy, puree the mix in a blender. Have a container with a strainer set over it handy ... strain the pureed mix through the strainer into the waiting receptacle. Use a ladle to force the pureed mix through the strainer, this takes time but results in a smoother, more professional product.

Transfer all the strained sauce into a shallow aluminum pan (or hotel pan) to cool. Don't repackage it until it's COMPLETELY cooled down. It keeps a long time and freezes very well!

Working with Marinades and Wood Chips

Smoking is a leisurely and sophisticated way of using a standard kettle grill. Sorry - no propane grills need apply! (I never understood propane grills ... one ends up with petroleum flavor and aroma, not wood/smoky aesthetic.) Ingredients to be smoked should be properly prepared, as should the wood chips themselves.

Some simple guidelines:

1. Most non-root vegetables do well with some combination of herbs, garlic, olive oil, and balsamic vinegar and/or soy sauce. Root vegetables are better roasted, and do well with sweeter marinades (olive oil, salt and pepper, a dash of sugar).
2. For fish and meats, consider ... what would you drink with it? Most recently, I marinaded some halibut filets in white wine, soy sauce, and some sweet-and-spicy chipotle sauce that I bought at the Grand Lake Farmer's Market in Oakland.
3. For the wood chips ... soak them in a liquid that balances the requirements of the wood with the marinade for the meat. For instance, I recently used Alder chips, and soaked them in cheap white wine with a few dried chili peppers added for good measure. Other chips have different requirements ... Apple wood chips do well soaked in apple juice and/or a sweet wine like Riesling.
4. When smoking just about anything, have a "drip pan" filled with liquid in the bottom of the kettle, next to the coals. This is meant for fattier meats, it's to prevent flare-ups - you place the meat, etc. over the drip pan, NOT over the coals directly. This is good practice even for low-fat items, it lets the product cook gently, slowly, and evenly, and allow plenty of time to infuse the true smoky flavor.
5. Fill the drip pan with the liquid you used to soak the wood chips. If there's not enough, add some water or some other interesting liquid (beer, wine).

Not too tough. Play around with the marinades and keep note of which flavors work best for your taste and applications.

Savory Cooking with Seasonal Fruits

I like to make as much use as possible of what's in season. By the same token, if I've over-purchased, I don't want to let anything go to waste. I had some stone fruits that were getting more than a little soft, so I bought some cherries and fresh thyme, dug up a bottle of cheap port, and came up with this versatile treatment:

Cherry-port Glaze with Thyme and Stone Fruits

(note: no measurements given here, this is a technique for the clever and frugal, not a "recipe" per se ... let me know how this works for you)
Ingredients:
- Some cherries, pitted (go and buy a cherry pitter, you won't regret purchasing it)
- Assorted stone fruit, preferably stuff that's so soft that it's difficult to eat - cut the fruit away from the pit, don't worry about being too precise
- Some cheap port
- A few sprigs of fresh thyme

Directions:

Pour some port into a wide pan, maybe an inch or two deep. Bring to a simmer over medium heat.

When port is simmering, add pitted cherries, pieces of stone fruit, and the fresh thyme. Allow to simmer, slightly-covered. Simmer for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. When the mixture begins to bubble and become thick and tar-like (see picture), turn off heat and cover completely. Allow to sit for 10-15 minutes, this allows the mixture to fully soften.

Transfer the cooked mixture to a food processor. Process until smooth. Then transfer to a mesh strainer held over a bowl. Using a spatula or wooden spoon, push the mixture through the strainer to smooth it out. Don't use TOO fine a mesh or you'll be there forever!

You'll wind up with a sweet/sour/savory puree that's good as a glaze for pork or chicken, or which can be spread on crackers (goes great with blue cheese ... enjoy some for me, the doctor tells me I need to swear off cheese).

Real Charcoal for Real Men

I was going to do some grilling at a friend's house in San Francisco. Was he ever particular about the kind of coals he wanted me to bring ...

"Don't go getting any of the standard charcoal briquettes! Those are made with old used-up tires and all kinds of junk. Get REAL mesquite charcoal if you're going to be using my grill, please!"

Yes, sir.

But he was right. Suddenly, years of grilling over "standard charcoal briquettes" came back to me. It dawned on me that there was a sinister reason why my throat felt like I'd burned through 4 packs of unfiltered cigarettes in 30 minutes after a "fun" afternoon of grilling.

Now I just use real mesquite coals. They burn unevenly, and run MUCH hotter than briquettes. But the taste they impart to the food can't be duplicated, and they are much easier on my eyes and throat.

Cooking with Asparagus, in an Asian style

Don't slather all that nice asparagus in Hollandaise sauce! Instead, use the first of the season's harvest to make this easy, delicious meal ... recipe courtesy of ChinatownConnection.com.

Stir-fried Asparagus with Chicken and Black Bean Sauce
Yield: 6 servings

Ingredients:
2 Chicken thighs
12 medium Asparagus spears
3 tb Peanut or corn oil

----------------------------------MARINADE----------------------------------
1 tb Dry sherry
1 ts Cornstarch
2 ts Thin soy sauce
1 pinch Sugar

-----------------------------------SAUCE-----------------------------------
2 ts Fermented black beans
3 Cloves garlic, minced
1/2 ts Brown sugar
2 ts Black soy sauce
3/4 c Chicken stock
Cornstarch paste

Directions:
Marinating: With sharp paring knife, scrape chicken meat from thigh; slice into thin strips across the grain. (Breast meat is not preferred for this dish, as meat is too dry and spongy.) Combine sherry, soy, cornstarch and sugar in bowl; massage liquid into meat with your fingers. Marinate for 15 to 30 minutes.

Preparation: Wash asparagus; peel tough white outer skin off ends; slice on diagonal in 2 1/2" sections. Rinse fermented black beans. In bowl, combine and mash black beans and garlic, brown sugar, black soy sauce and chicken stock; stir; reserve for 15 minutes.

Stir Frying: Add 2/3 of oil to hot wok; when oil is very hot, add chicken. Stir-fry for about 3 minutes on high heat - or until chicken begins to shrink and firm up. Remove chicken to holding bowl.

Reheat wok to high, add remaining oil. When oil is hot, add black bean sauce. Stir-fry for 1 minute. Add asparagus; mix with sauce. Stir sauce with asparagus. When sauce boils, add cooked chicken; toss to combine. Dribble in a little cornstarch paste if needed; cornstarch in chicken marinade might be enough. Toss ingredients until very little liquid remains and is reduced to glaze. Dish is ready when asparagus brightens. If you still have too much liquid, remove ingredients, continue to reduce sauce, then return ingredients to coat them with sauce. Serve in individual portions; steamed rice makes a good accompaniment for this dish.

Crab Quesadillas

Enjoying fresh Dungeness Crab is one of the best parts of Winter. This recipe features fresh crab meat in an easy-to-make appetizer that's paired with a refreshing salsa.

CRAB QUESADILLAS WITH MANGO SALSA

Serves 4

Ingredients:
• ¼# flaked lump crab meat
• 1-1/2 tablespoons chopped cilantro
• ½ jalapeno pepper, seeded and minced
• Vegetable oil, as needed
• 4 flour tortillas (taco size)
• 2 cups shredded Monterey Jack Cheese
• Pinch each of salt and pepper
For the Salsa:
• 1 mango, peeled, seeded, and small diced
• 1 tablespoon lime juice
• ½” piece of ginger, peeled and grated
• 2 tablespoons red onion, finely chopped
• Pinch of cayenne pepper
• Salt and pepper, to taste

Directions:
1. To make the salsa – simply combine all ingredients in a bowl. Allow to chill, covered.
2. For the crabmeat filling – mix together crabmeat, cilantro, jalapeno, and salt and pepper in a bowl.
3. Heat a skillet (cast-iron or non-stick are best) over medium heat. When hot, pour in just enough oil to lightly but fully coat the bottom of the skillet. Allow the oil to become hot before proceeding.
4. Place 1 tortilla in the pan. Immediately top 1 cup of the cheese and half the crab mixture, evenly spread out. Top with another tortilla and reduce heat to medium low.
5. When the bottom tortilla is browned (check carefully with a spatula), use a wide spatula (or two narrower ones) to turn the quesadilla over and allow it to brown on the other side.
6. When finished, both tortillas should be browned and the cheese melted through.
7. Transfer to a cutting board – cut into wedges and serve either topped with salsa, or with salsa on the side.

Field Greens and Vinaigrettes

I admit to a great love of greens. Mom never had to force these down MY gullet as a kid. With superb product available from Farmer's Markets even during Winter, there's no excuse for not including these as a central part of one's daily meals.

Mixed Field Greens with Citrus-reduction Vinaigrette:
Carefully wash and spin the greens. If you don't own a salad spinner, go out NOW to Bed, Bath and Beyond and buy one. If using radicchio or any of the more exotic lettuces (letti?), slice them thin, and wash and spin them separately - then add them to the field greens. Don't use just radicchio, it's far too bitter on it's own.

For the Citrus-reduction: get a pot going over medium heat; pour in some good-quality orange juice (get fresh-squeezed or even Odwalla). Let this simmer until reduced to about one-third of it's original volume. Then add a small amount of lemon and lime juice and reduce by another 10-20% DON'T let the mixture scorch! Turn down the heat if need be - this will take some time, don't rush it!

When the Citrus reduction is done, allow it to cool to room temperature. Transfer it to a bowl, add a dab of Dijon mustard and some salt and pepper. Slowly, whisk in some good quality extra-virgin olive oil until a somewhat thick, even emulsion is formed.

Toss your greens lightly with this vinaigrette - with some sauteed fish, this makes a fine light luncheon. With some toasted almonds or cashews and some Point Reyes Blue Cheese, it makes a good starter course for a dinner.