Politically Correct Wine?

"You HAVE to go to Zuccardi Winery when you're in Argentina!"

My new friend Hannah was very insistent! I wanted to know what the big deal was ...

"All of their wines are great! No mediocre wines!"

A good recommendation ... but what else ...?

"They educate all their workers. All the vineyard workers go to school after their shifts are completed. The head of the company wants them all to have at least a high school education. It's unheard of, especially in South America."

OK ... now THIS was something out of the ordinary!

Well, Zuccardi was the first winery we visited in Argentina. A pristine setting, meticulously cared-for equipment, and as promised, great wines. Some nice olive oil too - very earthy, robust, and forthright.

But what about the workers?

"Yeah, they take good care of everyone 'ere. Nice folks t'work for." This was the information I was able to get out of our tour guide, Harry, an Englishman. Didn't get much else out of him or anyone else there, so for now at least I'll have to go with what I've been told.

And if we keep our fingers crossed, maybe we'll see some of Zuccardi's fine Malbec Port for sale in the States soon!

Last of the season's corn + fresh chilies

Each year, it seems that corn is available later and later into the season. I guess this is a natural result of our overwhelming dependence on maize. The recipe included here makes use of corn, plus the eminently seasonable Poblano chilies, for a versatile side dish:

Roasted Corn and Poblano Relish

Serves 4

Ingredients:
2 Poblano Chiles
1 red bell pepper
2 ears corn
1 tsp. rice bran oil
3 Tb. Chopped shallots
3 Tb. Minced garlic
1 bunch fresh cilantro, fine chopped
½ cup olive oil
1/3 cup sherry vinegar
Salt and pepper, to taste

Directions:
1. Roast the chiles and pepper over an open flame. Sweat them in a bowl covered with plastic, then peel/seed them. Dice the chiles and peppers, place in a fresh bowl.
2. Rub the husked/de-silked corn with oil and sear over an open flame (OPTIONAL: Roast in a very hot oven until somewhat browned). Cut the kernels off the cob.
3. Mix together the diced chiles, corn kernels, and all the rest of the ingredients.

On Staffing

I started my business as many caterers do. I was intent on doing everything myself - purchasing, finances, marketing, service, preparation ... I would have total control over every aspect, with the utmost attention to each detail. And so, like many caterers before me, I soon found myself well on the way to a padded cell.

I learned the value of delegating. I began hiring servers to help me with events attended by more than 3-4 guests. This help enabled me to stay focused on my area of expertise - the cuisine.

Re-defining my efforts in creating my cuisine was the next phase. Like most chefs, I've made many contacts over the years. One lady I knew impressed me with her professionalism and attention to detail. She quickly became my right-hand-woman both in the prep kitchen and on-site at events, whenever food needed to be produced in larger quantities than I was able to handle by myself.

Next came team-building. I found myself relying strongly on a core crew of 4-5 people. Having spent years in various corporate kitchen management positions, no one had to tell me about the value of staff meetings. We had a critical staff meeting in early August, which set the stage for successful events (and very happy clients!) as the weeks rolled on.

And the next step? Expanding the crew and sending out groups of top-quality teams to handle multiple events on the same day ...

Grill Recipes from Joey Altman

I recently had the opportunity to work with Joey Altman - we were cooking on the grill for annual BBQ held by the San Francisco Professional Food Society, a non-profit organization dedicated to helping connect Bay Area food professionals. After the event, Joey was cool enough to provide recipes for the marinades and side dishes we served that day ...


Honey Mustard Glaze
1qt. honey
1qt. Dijon mustard
2 cups whole grain mustard
2 cups yellow mustard
2 cups brown sugar
1 cup finely minced garlic
1 cup olive oil
3 cups apple cider vinegar
½ cup chile powder
¼ cup ground black pepper
½ cup salt

Whisk everything together.

Pomegranate Marinade

2 qts. Pomegranate juice
1 cup chopped garlic
1 cup roughly chopped rosemary
¼ cup kosher salt
¼ cup ground black pepper

Whisk everything together.

Thai Grilled Prawns with Emerald Noodles

36 large, shell-on shrimp (about 2 pounds)
1/2 cup chopped fresh mint
1/2 cup chopped cilantro
1/4 cup chopped basil
1/4 cup thinly sliced Serrano chilies (3 to 4 chiles)
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons fresh lime juice (about 1 lime)
1 tablespoon minced garlic (about 6 small cloves)
1 teaspoon granulated sugar
8 ounces cappelini
1 recipe Emerald Sauce (see below)
12 eight-inch wooden skewers soaked in water for 20 minutes

Use a serrated knife to cut the shrimp lengthwise along the back of the shell—not all the way through—to butterfly the shrimp. Rinse and drain the shrimp and put into a bowl. Add 1/4 cup of mint, 1/4 cup of cilantro, and all of the basil, chilies, olive oil, lime juice, garlic, and sugar. Toss well to coat the shrimp. Put three shrimp on each skewer, threading them through about one-third and two-thirds down the length of the shrimp to hold them in their natural “c” shape.

Cook the cappelini until al dente in plenty of salted, boiling water according to package directions. Drain and transfer to a large bowl. Coat with the Emerald Sauce, tossing with two spoons until the noodles are evenly coated.

Grill the shrimp over a medium-hot barbecue until they are cooked through, 3 to 4 minutes per side. Mound the noodles on 6 plates, twisting them into a nest. Serve 2 shrimp skewers crisscrossed atop the noodles. Garnish with the remaining mint and cilantro.

Emerald Sauce

1 bunch Cilantro, with stems
1 bunch Mint leaves
1 bunch Basil leaves
1/2 cup lime juice
1/4 cup rice wine vinegar
1/4 cup peanuts
3 jalapenos, seeded
1/4 cup ginger
1 tablespoon garlic
1 tablespoon sugar
1 cup peanut oil
1/4 cup sesame oil
salt and pepper to taste


Puree all ingredients in blender until smooth and mix with pasta. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Garnish with red pepper strips and chopped peanuts.



Roasted Spiced Chicken Drumsticks with Pequillo Pepper Sauce

'Pimento del Pequillo de Lodosa'--the red 'Pequillo' pepper-- is a common ingredient throughout the Basque Country. Grown close to the Ebro River in southern Navarra, they are smaller than American sweet bell peppers, and are slightly piquant. They are triangular in shape, ending in a point. Once harvested, they are roasted over beach wood fires, peeled and jarred in their own juices. 'Pequillos' can be found jarred or tinned in specialty shops. They benefit from the Spanish equivalent to the 'appellation controle' (the 'denomincion de origen), so if you find that on the label, you will have the real thing. You can substitute small red bell peppers or very mild red chilies.

2 # chicken drumsticks, (can also use chicken wings)
¼ cup olive oil
3 tablespoons minced garlic
2 tablespoons pimenton (smoked Spanish paprika made from the pequillo chile)
2 tablespoons ground cumin
2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons kosher salt

In a large bowl coat the chicken with the oil and spices. Let marinate for at least 2 hours.

Preheat oven to 375º
Place drumsticks on a baking tray and bake for 25-30 minutes, to a golden-brown. Remove the chicken legs from the oven and transfer to a warm serving platter.
Serve with pequillo pepper sauce on the side or drizzled over the chicken. Garnish with cilantro leaves.

Pequillo Pepper Sauce

1 cup pequillo peppers or roasted red bell peppers skinned and seed
2 cloves of garlic
juice of 1 lemon
1 teaspoon of pimento
4 saltine crackers
1 cup olive oil
salt and fresh ground pepper

Puree ingredients in a blender until smooth. Season to taste with salt and pepper

American ideas, British ingredients

I go into peoples' houses all the time to create meals - but never in another country. I recently had fun making some hors d'oeuvres for friends of mine who I stayed with in England.

Spicy Sausages and Candied-citrus Quark on Crostini, with Field Greens in a Citrus-reduction Vinaigrette

Ingredients:

• 1 loaf baguette


• 3 links spicy sausage (when at home, I like to buy the smokin' Habanero Chicken sausages at Piedmont Grocery)


• 8 ounces quark (at home, Petaluma's Spring Hill is an excellent source for this - in England, I found it at Sainsbury's, the local equivalent of Safeway)


• 1 each lemons, limes, oranges, and grapefruits


• 1 bag field greens


• extra-virgin olive oil


• 1/3 cup granulated sugar


• salt and pepper

Directions:

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.


2. Prepare the Crostini: cut the baguette into thin slices, on the bias. Toss in a large bowl with extra virgin olive oil, just enough to evenly (but lightly) coat each piece of bread. Lay out on a sheet pan, sprinkle lightly and evenly with salt and pepper, then bake until golden and crispy - about 20-25 minutes. When done, set aside and allow to cool down.


3. Prepare the sausages: heat about 1 Tb. of extra-virgin olive oil in a pan over medium-high heat. Sear the sausages until browned on both sides - then transfer to the oven. (It's easiest to use an oven-safe pan - if you have a cast-iron pan and good solid oven mitts, this is best.) Cook until the sausages are firm, about 15-20 minutes. Allow to cool down - when cool enough to handle, slice into thin rounds.


4. Prepare the Candied Citrus zest + Quark: wash all the fruits, and dry thoroughly with a paper towel. Using a channel zester (not a Micro-plane!), zest all the fruits, collecting the zest in a small bowl. Set the fruits aside. Add the sugar plus an equal amount of water to a small sauce pan - stir in the sugar to dissolve it, then bring the sugar water to a boil over high heat. Once it starts to boil, add the zest, mix it in, and turn off the heat immediately. Let the zest sit in the syrup for 15-20 minutes. Drain the zest through a colander - discard the syrup (the syrup can be saved, if you like - it can be used as a glaze for certain desserts). Spread the drained, poached zest onto a lined sheet pan (if you don't line the pan, you'll be cursing later as you try to scrape candied zest of the pan). Place in the oven, allow to bake for 10-15 minutes, moving the zest around every 3-5 minutes to encourage even cooking (and prevent excessive sticking - some will stick in any event). The zest should be crispy and very lightly browned. Allow to cool - then remove from the pan, chop roughly, and mix into the quark.


5. Prepare the Citrus-reduction Vinaigrette: have a colander ready over a large bowl. Trim the rind away from the zested citrus fruits. Using a small serrated knife, cut away the fruits from the rinds - these fruit pieces (these sections are known as supremes). Catch all the juices into the bowl as you work. When done, set aside the citrus sections. Transfer the citrus juices to a small sauce-pan - reduce these juices over medium heat until you have a syrup (be careful! a few extra minutes could leave you with a scorched product, be vigilant). Transfer this syrup to a large bowl and allow to cool to room temperature. Season the citrus syrup with salt and pepper, then whisk in extra-virgin olive oil until you have a vinaigrette - make sure it has enough oil or it'll be too acidic to enjoy.


6. For presentation: top each crostini with a dab of Candied-citrus Quark, then a slice of Spicy Sausage. Toss the salad greens with the Citrus-reduction Vinaigrette, and place in the center of a plate (with the crostinis arranged around it), with citrus supremes arranged over the salad.

Smoke 'em if ya got 'em ....

Like most guys, I like new kitchen toys ... but only if it's something I'm going to use on a regular basis. This is what has kept me, for years now, from buying a smoker.

Smokers have become common in recent years but it wasn't always so. When I first started grilling, smoker units were typically found only in certain hardware stores that catered to grilling enthusiasts. Usually, one had to order a smoker by mail. Nowadays, most hardware stores carry them and there are a number of reliable versions.

But I still couldn't bring myself to actually buy one. I've used a big old Weber kettle grill for years and it has served me faithfully. When I read about how to have a kettle grill double as a smoker, I had to try it.

I also had never come to love the ultra-efficiency of commercial, electric smokers. They're easy to use ... you put the wood chips in the appropriate slot, the meat in the racks, plug it in and turn it on. Set the time and temperature, then walk away and let it do it's work. They work like a charm but there's something a little too easy about them ... there's no uncertainty or individuality involved in the cooking process. I like the messy involvement of stoking the coals and tending the meat. Here's my method for doing just that ...

1. Start by soaking the wood chips. I prefer apple-wood or hickory. Alder wood is good too, but is most often used with salmon. Soak the chips in water with some apple juice mixed in for a sweeter finish, or some soy sauce for a slightly darker glaze.
2. For the coals, use real mesquite wood charcoal, preferably by Lazzari. A friend of mine once told me that "regular" charcoal briquets use pulped bits of rubber tires and other junk. After having inhaled plenty of toxic smoke while working for cheap caterers who won't spring for real mesquite, I can tell you ... this is true.
3. While the chips soak, start the coals. Some people love tons of lighter fluid, others use the "chimney-starter" method. I am quickly becoming more fond of the chimney method, as it means fewer chemicals in with the smoke. Let the lit coals ash over almost 100% - they will need to burn for several hours so don't let them burn too fast!
4. Just before the coals are ready, get the drip pan ready. An aluminum half-roasting pan filled with liquid must be placed under the meat as it smokes to prevent flare-ups, if the meat is going directly onto the grill (more on this later). For the liquid, use the wood-chip soaking liquid. Get two large stainless steel bowls + a colander ready. Pour the wood chips into the colander set over one of the bowls. Set the colander with chips into the other bowl to let the chips keep draining off liquid. Don't worry about having too much liquid. If the meat will be smoking for a while, you'll likely need to refill the drip pan to keep it from scorching.
5. By now, you should be ready to go, with meat ready, coals nearly white-hot, wood chips pre-soaked and drained, drip pan + liquid standing by. Grab a pair of long metal tongs and a long, grill-sturdy spatula and be ready to work carefully during the next steps ...
6. Using the long spatula, divide the pile of coals into two equal mounds, moved to the sides of the kettle grill. Drop the aluminum drip pan into the space between the piles of hot coals and quickly fill it with the soaking liquid, as full as you can (but try not to spill any water onto the coals!).
7. Get ready to work very quickly now. Have the chips, wire grill cover, and meat readily at hand. Sprinkle the soaked chips onto the hot coals. Place the grill cover the top, and place the meat onto the grill, directly over the drip pan.
8. By now, the chips should be smoking great guns. Make sure all the vents on the kettle (and the kettle cover) are open all the way. The smoke will quickly inhibit the coals if there's not lots of circulation (don't worry, the meat will pick up plenty of smoky flavor - the smoke won't be "lost"). Cover the grill and let 'er go. Plenty of smoke will be generated, so make sure you're on good terms with your neighbors.
9. It will probably be necessary to uncover the grill every 30-45 minutes to get the coals to revive a bit. After 1-2 hours, it will likely be necessary to poak the coals to keep them lively. Not all of the chips will be smoking, it will be necessary to move the "dead" chips onto live coals to keep the smoke going. (I said it's not the most efficient process, but it is fun!)
10. For poultry - Chicken can take up to 1-2 hours for breasts and thighs, 3 hours or so for a whole bird. Turkey parts take somewhat longer. Whole turkeys may require an infusion of fresh coals and chips and will likely take at least 4 hours.
11. For red meats - Pork ribs and loins take about 2 hours. Ribs can get dried out and must be marinated thoroughly ahead of time. Lamb is excellent when smoked - a whole leg of lamb will go for about 3-4 hours, individual lamb chops for about an hour. Beef is not often smoked, except for brisket (which takes a VERY long time).
12. For seafood - scallops and shrimp will smoke quickly, in about 30-45 minutes. Fish can smoke for about 45-60 minutes.
13. Please remember that all times are APPROXIMATE and will vary greatly with your product - both the coals and the meat!

On Aioli

I didn't really appreciate Aioli until I started working at the Lark Creek Inn. At my Garde Manger station, I was responsible for making a fresh Aioli at least every other day. The standard was our classic Lemon-Pepper Aioli, a dollop of which was served on our freshly-made crab cakes. The "Lemon" came from fresh lemon juice, and the "Pepper" from coarsely ground black pepper, that we ground in a big old machine that we kept in our dry-goods shed near the restaurant.

Later, as the menus changed, I learned to make Aiolis using Sun-dried Tomatoes, Chipotle Chiles, Lime Juice, and Saffron. The knowledge stood me in good stead when I started work for other caterers - I'd occasionally be told "The client wants Sage Aioli to go with the shrimp for her wedding reception. Go and make a Sage Aioli ... make it taste good!" I'm proud to say that I never had any complaints. Here's a recipe for a Green Onion Aioli that I served with a Tempura recently...

Green Onion Aioli

Makes about 1 cup

Ingredients:

• 1 clove garlic
• 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
• the greens from 1 spring onion - don't use the whites!
• 1 egg yolk
• 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
• about 1/2 cup corn or canola oil (+1 tablespoon extra, for sauteeing)
  
• about 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• salt and black pepper
  

Directions:

1. Cut the greens from the spring onion into roughly 1/2" pieces. Saute them in the tablespoon of corn oil over high heat, briefly. When the greens are a brighter color and have begun to soften, set them on a plate to cool down. Allow them to cool to nearly room temperature before proceeding (if you use them when they're still too hot, they'll scramble the egg yolk).
2. mince the garlic finely. As you mince it, sprinkle it with a little salt - the salt will pick up the oils from the garlic, making for a more flavorful product.
3. Add the minced garlic (+ salt it was sprinkled with) to the body of a food processor. Add the lemon juice, mustard, egg yolk, and a pinch of black pepper. Have the oils ready in two separate vessels from which you can pour steadily - don't try to pour oils directly from a large container!
4. Run the food processor until the yolk starts to become frothy and pale.
5. Add the corn/canola oil in a thin, steady stream. Go slowly - if the oil won't emulsify into the yolk mixture, the Aioli is broken (start again). The oil should incorporate gradually into the yolk. As the emulsion becomes thicker, listen carefully to the pitch of the motor as the mixture thickens ... the sound should become slightly louder and deeper as the emulsion thickens.
6. When all the corn/canola oil has been added, add green onions. Let them mix thoroughly into the emulsion.
7. When the Aioli is smooth, add the extra-virgin olive oil (again, in a slow, steady stream). This will lend some extra flavor. Remove to a container with a spatula - keep under refrigeration ... it will keep for no more than 3 days, maximum.
   

A Misunderstood Vegetable

I discovered Broccoli Rabe (also called Rapini) on my very last night of living in the Bronx. For my farewell meal before departing Out West for California, I had asked my parents to take me to a good old-school type Italian restaurant on the Bronx's Arthur Avenue. We ended up at one of the very best restaurants in the area - Dominic's, a neighborhood institution.

Dominic's is a place for serious eaters only. Patrons sit at long wooden tables, eating family-style. There are no menus - the waiter will tell you what's available that night. No checks or credit cards taken - cash on the barrel only. No individual plates - everything is served on platters. No reservations, either - strictly first-come, first-served.

I remember the stuffed breast of veal. I remember the big platter of steamed mussels in tomato sauce. I remember the roasted potatoes. But mostly, I remember the Broccoli Rabe.

It was a revelation. All the flavor of regular American broccoli, but without the sulphur-y stink. A taste of bitterness and complexity that even Chinese broccoli didn't have. And with a topping of garlic, sauteed in good Italian olive oil, it was incomparable.

After coming out to California, I spent years searching for this vegetable. It pleased me no end to discover that I could get Broccoli Rabe regularly at Berkeley Bowl and Whole Foods. After that, I worked for a while to re-create that Arthur Avenue taste. The recipe is included below .. I think it's as close to Dominic's as one is likely to get ...

Broccoli Rabe (Rapini) with Garlic

Serves 6

2# broccoli rabe (also called rapini), washed and trimmed
1 tablespoon olive extra-virgin olive oil
2-3 cloves garlic, sliced thin
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon ground black pepper
¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes

1. Fill a pot with water; bring to a boil over high heat. Add broccoli rabe, return water to a boil, cook until broccoli rabe is tender but still has some firmness (about 3-4 minutes). Drain broccoli rabe, chop coarsely, and set aside.
2. In a large skillet, hear olive oil over medium heat. Add garlic, cook until it just starts to become golden (about 2-3 minutes). Add broccoli rabe, salt, pepper, and red pepper. Cook for 1-2 more minutes, serve.