Sunday, January 3, 2010

Yuzu and me


"Add a little Yuzu vinegar."

Hunh?

The sharp young sous chef was correcting a spiced-vinegar reduction I was making. It was the basis for one of the vinaigrettes at my station. But something was missing.

I added the Yuzu vinegar and gave it another try, as did the sous chef.

"Perfect! Cool it down and get it on your station, service begins in less than half an hour."

I'd never heard of Yuzu before. After lunch service, I asked about it. It's an Asian citrus with an aromatic, perfumy essence. A new one on me (I'd gotten into fine-dining to learn stuff like this).

I later found a Yuzu syrup at a local farmer's market. Always made a nice addition to various glazes. Never saw a fresh one until recently ... I encountered a particularly fragrant bin of citrus at the Berkeley Bowl and I had to take notice. Fresh Yuzu! The ones I got hold of had tender skin and a somewhat feathery flesh, but they had that ineffably complex perfume and taste. Great for steaming shrimp ... and the client agreed!