Wednesday, April 30, 2008

Smoke 'em if ya got 'em ....

Like most guys, I like new kitchen toys ... but only if it's something I'm going to use on a regular basis. This is what has kept me, for years now, from buying a smoker.

Smokers have become common in recent years but it wasn't always so. When I first started grilling, smoker units were typically found only in certain hardware stores that catered to grilling enthusiasts. Usually, one had to order a smoker by mail. Nowadays, most hardware stores carry them and there are a number of reliable versions.

But I still couldn't bring myself to actually buy one. I've used a big old Weber kettle grill for years and it has served me faithfully. When I read about how to have a kettle grill double as a smoker, I had to try it.

I also had never come to love the ultra-efficiency of commercial, electric smokers. They're easy to use ... you put the wood chips in the appropriate slot, the meat in the racks, plug it in and turn it on. Set the time and temperature, then walk away and let it do it's work. They work like a charm but there's something a little too easy about them ... there's no uncertainty or individuality involved in the cooking process. I like the messy involvement of stoking the coals and tending the meat. Here's my method for doing just that ...

  1. Start by soaking the wood chips. I prefer apple-wood or hickory. Alder wood is good too, but is most often used with salmon. Soak the chips in water with some apple juice mixed in for a sweeter finish, or some soy sauce for a slightly darker glaze.
  2. For the coals, use real mesquite wood charcoal, preferably by Lazzari. A friend of mine once told me that "regular" charcoal briquets use pulped bits of rubber tires and other junk. After having inhaled plenty of toxic smoke while working for cheap caterers who won't spring for real mesquite, I can tell you ... this is true.
  3. While the chips soak, start the coals. Some people love tons of lighter fluid, others use the "chimney-starter" method. I am quickly becoming more fond of the chimney method, as it means fewer chemicals in with the smoke. Let the lit coals ash over almost 100% - they will need to burn for several hours so don't let them burn too fast!
  4. Just before the coals are ready, get the drip pan ready. An aluminum half-roasting pan filled with liquid must be placed under the meat as it smokes to prevent flare-ups, if the meat is going directly onto the grill (more on this later). For the liquid, use the wood-chip soaking liquid. Get two large stainless steel bowls + a colander ready. Pour the wood chips into the colander set over one of the bowls. Set the colander with chips into the other bowl to let the chips keep draining off liquid. Don't worry about having too much liquid. If the meat will be smoking for a while, you'll likely need to refill the drip pan to keep it from scorching.
  5. By now, you should be ready to go, with meat ready, coals nearly white-hot, wood chips pre-soaked and drained, drip pan + liquid standing by. Grab a pair of long metal tongs and a long, grill-sturdy spatula and be ready to work carefully during the next steps ...
  6. Using the long spatula, divide the pile of coals into two equal mounds, moved to the sides of the kettle grill. Drop the aluminum drip pan into the space between the piles of hot coals and quickly fill it with the soaking liquid, as full as you can (but try not to spill any water onto the coals!).
  7. Get ready to work very quickly now. Have the chips, wire grill cover, and meat readily at hand. Sprinkle the soaked chips onto the hot coals. Place the grill cover the top, and place the meat onto the grill, directly over the drip pan.
  8. By now, the chips should be smoking great guns. Make sure all the vents on the kettle (and the kettle cover) are open all the way. The smoke will quickly inhibit the coals if there's not lots of circulation (don't worry, the meat will pick up plenty of smoky flavor - the smoke won't be "lost"). Cover the grill and let 'er go. Plenty of smoke will be generated, so make sure you're on good terms with your neighbors.
  9. It will probably be necessary to uncover the grill every 30-45 minutes to get the coals to revive a bit. After 1-2 hours, it will likely be necessary to poak the coals to keep them lively. Not all of the chips will be smoking, it will be necessary to move the "dead" chips onto live coals to keep the smoke going. (I said it's not the most efficient process, but it is fun!)
  10. For poultry - Chicken can take up to 1-2 hours for breasts and thighs, 3 hours or so for a whole bird. Turkey parts take somewhat longer. Whole turkeys may require an infusion of fresh coals and chips and will likely take at least 4 hours.
  11. For red meats - Pork ribs and loins take about 2 hours. Ribs can get dried out and must be marinated thoroughly ahead of time. Lamb is excellent when smoked - a whole leg of lamb will go for about 3-4 hours, individual lamb chops for about an hour. Beef is not often smoked, except for brisket (which takes a VERY long time).
  12. For seafood - scallops and shrimp will smoke quickly, in about 30-45 minutes. Fish can smoke for about 45-60 minutes.
  13. Please remember that all times are APPROXIMATE and will vary greatly with your product - both the coals and the meat!