A Misunderstood Vegetable

I discovered Broccoli Rabe (also called Rapini) on my very last night of living in the Bronx. For my farewell meal before departing Out West for California, I had asked my parents to take me to a good old-school type Italian restaurant on the Bronx's Arthur Avenue. We ended up at one of the very best restaurants in the area - Dominic's, a neighborhood institution.

Dominic's is a place for serious eaters only. Patrons sit at long wooden tables, eating family-style. There are no menus - the waiter will tell you what's available that night. No checks or credit cards taken - cash on the barrel only. No individual plates - everything is served on platters. No reservations, either - strictly first-come, first-served.

I remember the stuffed breast of veal. I remember the big platter of steamed mussels in tomato sauce. I remember the roasted potatoes. But mostly, I remember the Broccoli Rabe.

It was a revelation. All the flavor of regular American broccoli, but without the sulphur-y stink. A taste of bitterness and complexity that even Chinese broccoli didn't have. And with a topping of garlic, sauteed in good Italian olive oil, it was incomparable.

After coming out to California, I spent years searching for this vegetable. It pleased me no end to discover that I could get Broccoli Rabe regularly at Berkeley Bowl and Whole Foods. After that, I worked for a while to re-create that Arthur Avenue taste. The recipe is included below .. I think it's as close to Dominic's as one is likely to get ...

Broccoli Rabe (Rapini) with Garlic

Serves 6

2# broccoli rabe (also called rapini), washed and trimmed
1 tablespoon olive extra-virgin olive oil
2-3 cloves garlic, sliced thin
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon ground black pepper
¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes

1. Fill a pot with water; bring to a boil over high heat. Add broccoli rabe, return water to a boil, cook until broccoli rabe is tender but still has some firmness (about 3-4 minutes). Drain broccoli rabe, chop coarsely, and set aside.
2. In a large skillet, hear olive oil over medium heat. Add garlic, cook until it just starts to become golden (about 2-3 minutes). Add broccoli rabe, salt, pepper, and red pepper. Cook for 1-2 more minutes, serve.