The Joy of (teaching) Cooking

Lamb braised in Red Wine

2011-04-12T10:27:00.001-07:00

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Lamb and red wine go well together. When cooked properly, lamb can be tender; the acids and alcohol in wine help tenderize lamb during the braising process.

Everyone has a favorite variety of lamb (or beef) stew, here are some basic ingredients:

- Lamb (preferably lamb leg, cut into chunks)
- Flour (or matzoh meal)
- vegetable oil (I tend to use extra-virgin olive oil)
- carrots, celery, onions, each cut into 1" dice (you can also add chopped garlic and tomatoes to these)
- red wine
- salt and pepper

The basic instructions are as follows:
- season the flour/matzoh meal with salt and pepper
- dredge the lamb chunks in the flour/meal
- heat a large skillet over medium-high heat; when hot, add oil
- add dusted lamb chunks to the oil (carefully), in a single layer - don't crowd them, or they won't brown! (Brown them in batches if you have to.) Allow each side to brown, turn for even coloring. Remove from pan, allow to sit in a bowl.
- meanwhile, in a separate pot that's large enough to hold the lamb and vegetables, bring the wine to a boil.
- de-glaze the skillet used for browning by adding the vegetables; stir the vegetables until they've started to sweat and become translucent.
- add the sauteed vegetables + browned lamb pieces to the boiling wine; bring to a boil again, reduce to a simmer, and allow to braised (partially covered), until the lamb is tender.
- when the lamb is just about done, you can add some minced herbs (thyme and rosemary are best).

Contact me if you have any questions!

Wine-based sauces

2011-03-13T13:40:00.000-07:00

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Pictured here are Chicken Breasts, stuffed with Goat Cheese Feta and poached Rapini. They are served with a Cabernet Sauvignon reduction and sauteed wild mushrooms.

Reducing the Cabernet (or any wine) should best be done slowly. Let the wine reduce over a low heat. The point is to let the flavors concentrate, not boil them away. By such time as the wine is ready to use, it should be thickened to an almost syrupy consistency.

At this stage, there are a number of options. One can simply serve the sauce as is ... but it is possible that very strong tannic, resiny elements (for red wines) or acidity (for white wines) will have been overly accentuated by the reducing process. I typically like to finish the reduced wine with butter and/or demiglace (for red wines), or butter and cream (for white wines). These rich additions help mellow out the flavors and lend an attractive shine and gloss to the finished product. Be sure to whisk thoroughly over heat to ensure the butter doesn't fall out of suspension, and finish with salt and pepper.

Bon appetit!

Working with Lemongrass

2011-01-20T16:20:00.001-08:00

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Lemon grass lends a lot of flavor but requires patience to work with. I recently served Lemongrass-and-lime-seared Pork Tenderloin Slices on Baguette (pictured here); these are the steps I took to make the marinade:

- First, I cut the lemongrass into pieces about 1" long.
- I sauteed the lemongrass pieces with onions and ginger in a wok, then added red wine, soy sauce, and lime juice. I covered it and let it simmer for about 40 minutes. Then I removed the lid and reduced the mixture until the liquids were the consistency of a thin syrup.
- I transferred the mixture to a cuisinart and processed as much as possible. The mixture still was pulpy and fibrous (lemongrass is a tough plant!), so I strained it, saving only the liquids.
- I mixed the liquids with a little more soy sauce, plus vegetable oil. I then marinated the pork tenderloins in this mixture for about 45 minutes.
- I seared the pork tenderloins, sliced them, and served them on baguette. The marinade lent an ineffably savory and aromatic essence to the meat!

A healthy cooking demonstration in Montclair, with a presentation on nutrition by Body Worx Fitness, LLC

2010-11-05T10:41:00.000-07:00

For information on holding your own in-home cooking party, contact us.

Learn more about our company - www.chefdanleff.com

For more on my colleague, Butch Strehlow, contact Body Worx Fitness, LLC

It was fun and informative to work with a personal trainer/nutritional coach for a recent cooking class. Butch of Body Worx Fitness provided detailed nutritional information based on the menu we prepared and served for our clients at a beautiful home in the Oakland Hills. Here's a selection from the evening ...

Soy-glazed Salmon (or Chicken Breasts) with Fresh Salsa

Ingredients:
• Salmon filets (or Chicken breasts) = 1 – 3 to 4 oz. piece per guest
• Soy sauce = approx. 2-3 ounces
• Olive oil = approx. 2 ounces
• Roma Tomatoes = approx. 3-4 each
• Lime juice = approx. 1-2 ounces
• Red onion, diced fine = 1 each
• Jalapeno or Serrano chilies, minced = 1-2 each
• Handful fresh cilantro, chopped = 1 bunch
• Salt and pepper = to taste

• To prepare the salsa: (Do this before preparing the salmon). Dice all fruits (small dice). Mix in red onion, chilies, cilantro, and lime juice. Allow to stand for 5-10 minutes, and then transfer to a colander set over a bowl. Allow to drain for an additional 5-10 minutes. The salsa will shed a lot of liquid – this liquid will be used as the basis of the salmon glaze. After draining off the liquid, transfer the drained salsa to a bowl and refrigerate.
• To prepare the salmon: Take the drained off liquid from the salsa, and whisk in soy sauce and olive oil. Judge the number of salmon pieces you have; will there be enough glaze? If not, add more soy sauce and lime juice, as needed.
• Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Lay salmon on a lined sheet pan. With a pastry brush, stir the glazing liquid briskly and thoroughly, and then brush each piece of salmon with this mixture. Cook in oven for 8-10 minutes; may vary depending on the thickness of the piece and exact oven used.

Mushroom Risotto

2010-10-11T11:58:00.000-07:00

For question on this recipe, or on culinary matters, contact me.

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Thanks to Michael Corsentino for this beautiful image - www.michaelcorsentino.com

Mushrooms and Risotto have a natural affinity. This recipe utilizes Chanterelles and is not difficult to make:

Mushroom Risotto – serves 4-6

Ingredients:
6-10 oz. Chanterelle Mushrooms, cleaned
1 shallot, peeled and julienned
1/2 cup white wine
2 yellow onions, fine chopped
3-5 cloves of garlic, fine chopped
2 cups Arborio or Carnaroli rice
9-10 cups of chicken or vegetable stock, heated in a sauce pan over a low heat
3 TB. Olive oil, plus an additional 2-3 TB. For sautéing the mushrooms
Salt and Pepper

Directions:
1. Prepare the mushrooms: shred the Chanterelles into thick pieces
2. Sauté the julienned shallots in 2-3 TB. Olive oil over high heat, when brown, add the musrhooms. Saute for a few minutes, until the mushrooms start to reabsorb their liquids, then add the white wine. Stir fry 1-2 minutes more, then season with salt and pepper and set aside.
3. In a pan at least 8” wide by 2” deep, heat the remaining 3 TB. olive oil over medium high heat.
4. When the oil is hot, add the chopped onions and garlic and sauté until the onions become translucent
5. Add the rice – stir until the rice is evenly coated with any oil in the pan
6. Using a 4- or 6-oz. ladle, add stock to the rice; stir until the rice absorbs the stock, and keep adding more stock, stirring all the while with a wooden spoon
7. The risotto will be ready when the rice is tender with just a hint of chewiness – kernels will be just barely translucent at this stage
8. Season with salt and pepper; stir in the mushrooms, or place them on top of portioned servings of risotto as a garnish.

Corn, chilies, and herbs - on the grill

2010-09-07T10:24:00.000-07:00

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I'm a big proponent of grilling, if the weather is right. As I've stated in previous blogs, grilling can be a subtle technique, if handled just so.

Consider the following:
Wash an ear of corn, then stick the un-shucked ear in the microwave, on "High", for about 1 minute. The ear will be hot, but MUCH easier to shuck and de-silk - the silk will come away in one bunch, easily! (Thanks to my friends at Pans on Fire for this neat trick.)
Lay the shucked/de-silked ear of corn on a piece of aluminum foil; top with about 1 Tb. butter. Wash 2-3 Padron chilies - cut them in half lengthwise, lay alongside the corn. On the other side of the corn, lay 2-3 sprigs fresh Rosemary. Sprinkle the whole lot with sea salt, then wrap tightly.

Lay this package over hot coals. You can start when the coals are still flaming, not quite ashed-over. Let sit, turning occasionally, for about 1 hour. At the end, the corn will be tender, sweet and rich from the butter, lightly redolent with the essence of rosemary. The peppers will also leave a hint of piquant sweetness. Goes well with fish and chicken. Enjoy!

On Gazpacho

2010-08-16T14:18:00.000-07:00

My appreciation for Gazpacho was kindled by my experiences working Garde Manger station at Lark Creek Inn. After lunch, during Summer months, it was my job to go out to the shed where cases upon cases of heirloom tomatoes were stored. I had to pick out the ones that were about to go rotten but were still just barely salvageable. We took these and made Gazpacho with them. Frugal, but also delicious.

The following recipe serves well for this dish ... know that, as with all such traditional dishes, styles and ingredients can vary quite widely.

Ingredients

* 10 oz of bread
* 21 oz. of tomato
* 2 cloves of garlic
* 2 onions
* 2 red and green peppers
* 1 cucumber (optional)
* 7 tablespoons of oil
* 2 tablespoons of vinegar
* 1 1/2 tablespoon of water
* Cumin (optional)

Preparation

In a big mortar mash the cumin, the garlic and the soaked bread, in a plastic bowl mix the chopped onion, the chopped tomato, the oil, the vinegar, the salt and the contents of the mortar, mash it with the mixer and add very cold water to mix everything. Add salt and strain it. Keep it in the fridge until served.

Serve with the tomato, the cucumber, the pepper and the toasted bread cut to dices.

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Grilling pork

2010-07-12T16:59:00.000-07:00

I'm done with pork loins. They are gigantic, far too lean, and easily wind up being too dry. Henceforth ... it's strictly pork TENDERLOINS for me.

You can buy a pack of 4 pork tenderloins at Costco for not much money. They don't even really require any trimming or other prep. Simply put 'em in a plastic bag with some red wine, herbs, garlic, and a little soy sauce. Let them sit over night, then grill them the next day.

The pork tenderloins pictured here were cooked until almost done. Then, they were transferred to an aluminum pan with about 2 cups of red wine, covered, and "braised" for another 10 minutes or so. I then let them sit for about 10 minutes. I sliced them thin and put them right back in the red wine braising liquid. For service, I served them on baguette with mustard and sliced cucumbers. Unbeatable for a Summer afternoon!

For more tips on cooking and catering, contact me.

Thoughts on Beverage Service

2010-06-06T18:04:00.000-07:00

During the Summer, successful events often call for a variety of (preferably cold) beverages. Here are some thoughts on the subject, drawn from my experience to date:

- Ice: if you have time and a capacious freezer, you may want to simply go and get this, if it's a small event. For larger events, you might wish to have the caterer buy large quantities of ice - note well that in hot, inland places it's likely easier to simply plan to have lots of ice on hand, rather than to ask someone to run out to Safeway for more ice halfway through the party.

- Alcoholic beverages: many caterers simply can't provide booze, due to insurance issues. Make sure your home-owners' insurance is in good order, or that you're renting space at a venue where liability is clearly delineated.

- Non-alcoholic beverages: gone are the days of the Shirley Temple. Plenty of top-quality, organic iced teas and lemonades (limeades, tangerine-ades) are available to make customized, refreshing beverages. Which brings us to ...

- Additional ingredients: whether it's a catered event or do-it-yourself, it's a "best practice" to have items like limes, lemons, and mint on-hand for flavoring waters, iced tea, or stronger potions.

Contact us to share ideas, or for specific inquiries.

Chef Dan Leff Catering, Inc.

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Cooking risotto

2010-05-04T16:20:00.000-07:00

I've cooked risotto in quantities ranging from enough for a dinner for two (and it's not easy to cook that little risotto), to hotel buffets for 400+ diners. Here's a few tips I've picked up:

- Have the stock hot before adding to the pan. If you're making saffron risotto (always a crowd-pleaser), let the saffron strands steep in the stock as long as possible before using it. Stock should be just below a simmer ... and please use stock, NOT water.

- Always use a wooden spoon. If you don't have a wooden spoon, refrain from making risotto until you've acquired one. Know that if you use a metal spoon, the kernels will break up and form crunchy fragments that don't release their starches properly. I learned this the hard way, in a big hotel, when trying to get the lunch buffet out.

- Risotto should not be cooked to quickly or too slowly. At too high of a heat, the liquid boils off before it can cook the rice. At too low of a heat, the mix just sits there.

- I have it on good authority that Carnaroli rice is superior to Arborio, but I've had good results with both.

... And if you have questions or comments, contact me at Chef Dan Leff Catering, Inc.

Oven-fried Chicken

2010-04-06T14:47:00.000-07:00

I love fried chicken but the doctor says "no way". If your doctor says the same, try this version that's baked in the oven, NOT deep-fried ....

Oven-fried chicken – makes 5-6 servings
Ingredients:
• 1 quart buttermilk
• 5-6 boneless, skinless chicken breasts
• 1 bunch each of marjoram and sage (can add thyme if desired)
• Flour
• Breadcrumbs (seasoned ones work well)
• 1 egg
• Salt, black pepper, cayenne
• Pan spray

Directions:
• Pour buttermilk into a bowl; whisk in salt, pepper, and cayenne.
• With the back of a knife, bruise half of the herbs – add to the buttermilk mixture.
• Add chicken breasts to this mixture; tried to get them all submerged. Let sit to marinate for about an hour.
• Heat oven to 400 degrees F. Prepare a sheet pan – I like to cover the pan with foil, and then spray with pan spray (much easier to remove the aluminum foil than to scrub and scrub the pan, later on).
• Trim the rest of the herbs off their stems, and then fine chop them. Add the chopped herbs to the flour.
• Mix some salt, pepper, and cayenne in with the flour as well. Don’t go to heavy with the spices, remember, they are in the marinade as well!
• Have breadcrumbs ready in a bowl.
• Remove the marinated chicken breasts from the buttermilk mix, to a bowl. Remove the bruised herbs and discard. Whisk one egg into the buttermilk mix.
• Get an “assembly line” going. Start with chicken breasts at one end, then the flour, then the buttermilk/egg mix, then the breadcrumbs, then the sprayed sheet pan.
• Work as follows: Dust each chicken breast well with flour, and then dunk it completely into the buttermilk mix. Then roll it completely with breadcrumbs to coat; transfer the coated chicken breast to the sheet pan. Repeat until they’re all ready-to-cook on the sheet pan.
• Bake for about 25-30 minutes (depends how big they are … some chicken breasts these days can range up to 8 oz. each in weight!). When done, let them rest for about 10 minutes, then serve. If you are saving them for later, DON’T wrap them up unless they are COMPLETELY cooled-down, or they’ll steam in their wrappers … a big potential health danger!
• Re-heat them in a medium oven for 20-30 minutes … they won’t be as crispy as when first out of the oven, but will be delicious!

On Tapenade

2010-03-03T13:14:00.000-08:00

Tapenade is one of the first things I learned to make in Garde Manger ("Cold Kitchen"), the class wherein we learned about pates, terrines, and other applications fit for fine buffet service. After years of making this, I've come up with a few twists on the original concept.

Olives - I use a mix of pitted Kalamata olives plus some sort of pitted green olive. It makes for a more interesting taste and appearance. The briny nature of the Kalamatas is off-set nicely by the more fruity essence of green olives.

Anchovies - I don't use them. Not everyone likes them, and I realized that I could accommodate die-hard vegans simply by omitting them. They do have a very strong taste and add a lot of sodium.

Salt - lightly, if at all! Just a TINY extra bit of salt can make the mixture nearly inedible.

Mortar and Pestle, or Food Processor? - Food Processor wins hands down! For best results, pulse the olives, just by themselves, in the processor for a little bit before adding any other ingredients (garlic, thyme, olive oil, capers, etc.) - if there are ANY pits that didn't get properly removed, they will be detectable by listening closely ... their presence will be betrayed by an unpleasant clacking sound against the blade!

Yuzu and me

2010-01-03T18:38:00.000-08:00

"Add a little Yuzu vinegar."

Hunh?

The sharp young sous chef was correcting a spiced-vinegar reduction I was making. It was the basis for one of the vinaigrettes at my station. But something was missing.

I added the Yuzu vinegar and gave it another try, as did the sous chef.

"Perfect! Cool it down and get it on your station, service begins in less than half an hour."

I'd never heard of Yuzu before. After lunch service, I asked about it. It's an Asian citrus with an aromatic, perfumy essence. A new one on me (I'd gotten into fine-dining to learn stuff like this).

I later found a Yuzu syrup at a local farmer's market. Always made a nice addition to various glazes. Never saw a fresh one until recently ... I encountered a particularly fragrant bin of citrus at the Berkeley Bowl and I had to take notice. Fresh Yuzu! The ones I got hold of had tender skin and a somewhat feathery flesh, but they had that ineffably complex perfume and taste. Great for steaming shrimp ... and the client agreed!

Why I don't make my own puff pastry

2009-12-06T19:03:00.000-08:00

"DON'T YOU EVER, EVER FAKE IT!!!"

The Pastry Chef-Instructor - a former wrestler and Marine - was right up in my face.

"IF YOU DON'T KNOW HOW TO DO SOMETHING ... ASK! GET INSTRUCTIONS! BUT DON'T EVER FAKE IT!"

In fact I had just badly messed up some bear claws that we'd been working on. I hadn't paid attention to the demo and now it was time to pay for my lack of focus.

I'm a good cold- and hot-line cook. I'm good with a variety of savory cooking applications.

But I'm just not a baker ... a common Achilles' heel in savory cooks. Which is why I don't make my own puff pastry. Why should I, when plenty of top-quality products are available, ready-to-use?

I did wind up passing the class. The Chef-Instructor was tough, but fair, and he gave me other chances to work hard and redeem myself. Ultimately, I learned to respect baking and pastry ... and stick to what I'm good at!

Still want to make your own puff pastry dough? Check out this recipe, and knock yourself out.

Louis XIII

2009-11-14T17:44:00.000-08:00

"Would you like to try some Louis XIII cognac?"

Would I?

Does a duck swim?

Frank J. poured me a nice glass of this famous cognac. I'd had it only once before, at a Walnut Creek's "Le Virage" ... sadly, long-defunct. Seeing as how I'm not King Midas, I hadn't expected to taste this luxury of luxuries for years to come, and Frank's offer was a welcome surprise.

Louis XIII is made by Remy Martin. Frank is an educator, with years of top-notch experience and education, employed by Remy Martin. We met a an event where he was providing an educational presentation on cocktails, drinks (there's a difference!), and their components. Before the night was through I'd learned that Louis XIII is among the world's original luxury goods ... long before newcomers like Lamborghini and Rolex came on the scene.

It went down with ultra-smoothness - no wonder, the oldest cognac mixed in with this batch dated from 1900! I'm typically a monk when I'm working, not touching anything stronger than water, but this was an exception that couldn't be passed up. And with no consequences ... it was mellow, not hard-hitting, and I was able to work without any hint of haziness. It conveyed an impeccable warmth, with no ill-effects at all.

A real treat. Thanks, Frank.

Cayenne-infused Vinaigrette

2009-10-17T15:59:00.000-07:00

I enjoy the art of making a good sauce, but wanted something different as a means of finishing a plate-up and enhancing the flavor of the dish. I served seared halibut with saffron risotto, squash, rapini, and chanterelles. Typically I might serve a white wine reduction finished with some cream and butter - however, the client specifically asked for something without a lot of cream.

I like using vinaigrettes ... the acid content helps brighten up an otherwise rich plate. I wanted this vinaigrette to have a little zip. I wanted sweetness to accompany the fish, so I opted for a balsamic vinaigrette.

I obtained a fresh cayenne pepper at a local grocery store. I split the pepper in half lengthwise and crushed the fleshy part with the blunt back of a knife blade. This was to release some of the crucial oils in the pepper so they'd be more accessible.

I put the slightly-crushed pepper halves into the vinaigrette. I completed this step before I got into any other prep and production ... this gave the pepper time to macerate in the vinaigrette. By the time I was ready for plate-up, I tasted it and it was pretty much where I wanted it to be - the sweetness of the balsamic vinegar was dominant, but in the back of the mouth I caught some of the essence of the pepper's fire. The client loved it!

A short shelf-life but a merry one ...

2009-09-08T22:53:00.000-07:00

Well, like an addict I can't pass by a pawpaw, even if the thing is about to turn black from old age - which sneaks up on these treats mighty fast. Generally, I eat as little fruit as possible but these things are great. I'm a sucker for their custard-like taste and consistency and vaguely floral aroma.

Confusingly enough, some think that the word "pawpaw" comes from the word "papaya". Supposedly of Southern/Midwestern origin, I'm not sure where my local Farmer's Market acquired their specimens. A couple of times a year I'll run across them, and in fact it's rare if they are available two weeks in a row.

An admission ... I haven't kept any of them around the house long enough to do any recipe experimentation with these fruits. I advise all who can find them to buy at least one, eat it QUICKLY, and see why I took up a whole blog entry to rave about pawpaws.

On BBQ Sauce

2009-08-19T11:05:00.001-07:00

Making BBQ sauce is neither difficult nor especially complex, but there are certain requirements. One must keep an eye on the temperature and not allow the mixture to scorch. As with any other sauce, I think it should be strained before use.

Here's a recipe that deliberately does NOT include measurements, in keeping with the somewhat rustic nature of the subject.

INGREDIENTS:
- Tomatoes, diced (fresh or canned)
- Tomato Paste
- Chipotle peppers in Adobo
- Dijon Mustard
- Assorted berries (particularly blackberries, blueberries, and strawberries)
- Brown Sugar
- Red Wine
- Soy sauce
- Red Onions
- Garlic

DIRECTIONS:
Add the diced tomatoes to a large pot, preferably with a heavy bottom (a thin-bottomed pot will transfer too much heat and could result in scorched product). Heat the pot + tomatoes over medium-high heat. Stir occasionally.

When the tomatoes come to a simmer, add all the other ingredients, mix in thoroughly, and return to a simmer. Turn heat down to low and allow to simmer slowly, stirring occasionally, for at least an hour (the longer the better, but as always make sure you stir it enough so that the bottom does not scorch!).

If you walk away, get a phone call, or otherwise forget and scorching DOES occur, transfer the contents ASAP to a new pot ... don't scrape up any of the material from the bottom. That scorched taste can "bloom" with cooking, lending an unpleasant burnt/bitter taste to the whole thing, so be careful.

When the mixture is done, taste it. Is the flavor not very distinguished? It may need some salt, or a little more soy sauce. Is it too thin? It may need more tomato paste. Too hot? Add more sugar. Too sweet? Add some hot sauce or pepper flakes. You get the idea.

Working in batches, and with lots of towels handy, puree the mix in a blender. Have a container with a strainer set over it handy ... strain the pureed mix through the strainer into the waiting receptacle. Use a ladle to force the pureed mix through the strainer, this takes time but results in a smoother, more professional product.

Transfer all the strained sauce into a shallow aluminum pan (or hotel pan) to cool. Don't repackage it until it's COMPLETELY cooled down. It keeps a long time and freezes very well!

Working with Marinades and Wood Chips

2009-07-14T22:42:00.000-07:00

Smoking is a leisurely and sophisticated way of using a standard kettle grill. Sorry - no propane grills need apply! (I never understood propane grills ... one ends up with petroleum flavor and aroma, not wood/smoky aesthetic.) Ingredients to be smoked should be properly prepared, as should the wood chips themselves.

Some simple guidelines:

1. Most non-root vegetables do well with some combination of herbs, garlic, olive oil, and balsamic vinegar and/or soy sauce. Root vegetables are better roasted, and do well with sweeter marinades (olive oil, salt and pepper, a dash of sugar).
2. For fish and meats, consider ... what would you drink with it? Most recently, I marinaded some halibut filets in white wine, soy sauce, and some sweet-and-spicy chipotle sauce that I bought at the Grand Lake Farmer's Market in Oakland.
3. For the wood chips ... soak them in a liquid that balances the requirements of the wood with the marinade for the meat. For instance, I recently used Alder chips, and soaked them in cheap white wine with a few dried chili peppers added for good measure. Other chips have different requirements ... Apple wood chips do well soaked in apple juice and/or a sweet wine like Riesling.
4. When smoking just about anything, have a "drip pan" filled with liquid in the bottom of the kettle, next to the coals. This is meant for fattier meats, it's to prevent flare-ups - you place the meat, etc. over the drip pan, NOT over the coals directly. This is good practice even for low-fat items, it lets the product cook gently, slowly, and evenly, and allow plenty of time to infuse the true smoky flavor.
5. Fill the drip pan with the liquid you used to soak the wood chips. If there's not enough, add some water or some other interesting liquid (beer, wine).

Not too tough. Play around with the marinades and keep note of which flavors work best for your taste and applications.

Savory Cooking with Seasonal Fruits

2009-06-09T18:30:00.000-07:00

I like to make as much use as possible of what's in season. By the same token, if I've over-purchased, I don't want to let anything go to waste. I had some stone fruits that were getting more than a little soft, so I bought some cherries and fresh thyme, dug up a bottle of cheap port, and came up with this versatile treatment:

Cherry-port Glaze with Thyme and Stone Fruits

(note: no measurements given here, this is a technique for the clever and frugal, not a "recipe" per se ... let me know how this works for you)
Ingredients:
- Some cherries, pitted (go and buy a cherry pitter, you won't regret purchasing it)
- Assorted stone fruit, preferably stuff that's so soft that it's difficult to eat - cut the fruit away from the pit, don't worry about being too precise
- Some cheap port
- A few sprigs of fresh thyme

Directions:

Pour some port into a wide pan, maybe an inch or two deep. Bring to a simmer over medium heat.

When port is simmering, add pitted cherries, pieces of stone fruit, and the fresh thyme. Allow to simmer, slightly-covered. Simmer for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. When the mixture begins to bubble and become thick and tar-like (see picture), turn off heat and cover completely. Allow to sit for 10-15 minutes, this allows the mixture to fully soften.

Transfer the cooked mixture to a food processor. Process until smooth. Then transfer to a mesh strainer held over a bowl. Using a spatula or wooden spoon, push the mixture through the strainer to smooth it out. Don't use TOO fine a mesh or you'll be there forever!

You'll wind up with a sweet/sour/savory puree that's good as a glaze for pork or chicken, or which can be spread on crackers (goes great with blue cheese ... enjoy some for me, the doctor tells me I need to swear off cheese).

Real Charcoal for Real Men

2009-05-11T16:39:00.000-07:00

I was going to do some grilling at a friend's house in San Francisco. Was he ever particular about the kind of coals he wanted me to bring ...

"Don't go getting any of the standard charcoal briquettes! Those are made with old used-up tires and all kinds of junk. Get REAL mesquite charcoal if you're going to be using my grill, please!"

Yes, sir.

But he was right. Suddenly, years of grilling over "standard charcoal briquettes" came back to me. It dawned on me that there was a sinister reason why my throat felt like I'd burned through 4 packs of unfiltered cigarettes in 30 minutes after a "fun" afternoon of grilling.

Now I just use real mesquite coals. They burn unevenly, and run MUCH hotter than briquettes. But the taste they impart to the food can't be duplicated, and they are much easier on my eyes and throat.

Cooking with Asparagus, in an Asian style

2009-04-05T18:15:00.000-07:00

Don't slather all that nice asparagus in Hollandaise sauce! Instead, use the first of the season's harvest to make this easy, delicious meal ... recipe courtesy of ChinatownConnection.com.

Stir-fried Asparagus with Chicken and Black Bean Sauce
Yield: 6 servings

Ingredients:
2 Chicken thighs
12 medium Asparagus spears
3 tb Peanut or corn oil

----------------------------------MARINADE----------------------------------
1 tb Dry sherry
1 ts Cornstarch
2 ts Thin soy sauce
1 pinch Sugar

-----------------------------------SAUCE-----------------------------------
2 ts Fermented black beans
3 Cloves garlic, minced
1/2 ts Brown sugar
2 ts Black soy sauce
3/4 c Chicken stock
Cornstarch paste

Directions:
Marinating: With sharp paring knife, scrape chicken meat from thigh; slice into thin strips across the grain. (Breast meat is not preferred for this dish, as meat is too dry and spongy.) Combine sherry, soy, cornstarch and sugar in bowl; massage liquid into meat with your fingers. Marinate for 15 to 30 minutes.

Preparation: Wash asparagus; peel tough white outer skin off ends; slice on diagonal in 2 1/2" sections. Rinse fermented black beans. In bowl, combine and mash black beans and garlic, brown sugar, black soy sauce and chicken stock; stir; reserve for 15 minutes.

Stir Frying: Add 2/3 of oil to hot wok; when oil is very hot, add chicken. Stir-fry for about 3 minutes on high heat - or until chicken begins to shrink and firm up. Remove chicken to holding bowl.

Reheat wok to high, add remaining oil. When oil is hot, add black bean sauce. Stir-fry for 1 minute. Add asparagus; mix with sauce. Stir sauce with asparagus. When sauce boils, add cooked chicken; toss to combine. Dribble in a little cornstarch paste if needed; cornstarch in chicken marinade might be enough. Toss ingredients until very little liquid remains and is reduced to glaze. Dish is ready when asparagus brightens. If you still have too much liquid, remove ingredients, continue to reduce sauce, then return ingredients to coat them with sauce. Serve in individual portions; steamed rice makes a good accompaniment for this dish.

Crab Quesadillas

2009-03-03T08:44:00.000-08:00

Enjoying fresh Dungeness Crab is one of the best parts of Winter. This recipe features fresh crab meat in an easy-to-make appetizer that's paired with a refreshing salsa.

CRAB QUESADILLAS WITH MANGO SALSA

Serves 4

Ingredients:
• ¼# flaked lump crab meat
• 1-1/2 tablespoons chopped cilantro
• ½ jalapeno pepper, seeded and minced
• Vegetable oil, as needed
• 4 flour tortillas (taco size)
• 2 cups shredded Monterey Jack Cheese
• Pinch each of salt and pepper
For the Salsa:
• 1 mango, peeled, seeded, and small diced
• 1 tablespoon lime juice
• ½” piece of ginger, peeled and grated
• 2 tablespoons red onion, finely chopped
• Pinch of cayenne pepper
• Salt and pepper, to taste

Directions:
1. To make the salsa – simply combine all ingredients in a bowl. Allow to chill, covered.
2. For the crabmeat filling – mix together crabmeat, cilantro, jalapeno, and salt and pepper in a bowl.
3. Heat a skillet (cast-iron or non-stick are best) over medium heat. When hot, pour in just enough oil to lightly but fully coat the bottom of the skillet. Allow the oil to become hot before proceeding.
4. Place 1 tortilla in the pan. Immediately top 1 cup of the cheese and half the crab mixture, evenly spread out. Top with another tortilla and reduce heat to medium low.
5. When the bottom tortilla is browned (check carefully with a spatula), use a wide spatula (or two narrower ones) to turn the quesadilla over and allow it to brown on the other side.
6. When finished, both tortillas should be browned and the cheese melted through.
7. Transfer to a cutting board – cut into wedges and serve either topped with salsa, or with salsa on the side.

Field Greens and Vinaigrettes

2009-02-01T17:15:00.000-08:00

I admit to a great love of greens. Mom never had to force these down MY gullet as a kid. With superb product available from Farmer's Markets even during Winter, there's no excuse for not including these as a central part of one's daily meals.

Mixed Field Greens with Citrus-reduction Vinaigrette:
Carefully wash and spin the greens. If you don't own a salad spinner, go out NOW to Bed, Bath and Beyond and buy one. If using radicchio or any of the more exotic lettuces (letti?), slice them thin, and wash and spin them separately - then add them to the field greens. Don't use just radicchio, it's far too bitter on it's own.

For the Citrus-reduction: get a pot going over medium heat; pour in some good-quality orange juice (get fresh-squeezed or even Odwalla). Let this simmer until reduced to about one-third of it's original volume. Then add a small amount of lemon and lime juice and reduce by another 10-20% DON'T let the mixture scorch! Turn down the heat if need be - this will take some time, don't rush it!

When the Citrus reduction is done, allow it to cool to room temperature. Transfer it to a bowl, add a dab of Dijon mustard and some salt and pepper. Slowly, whisk in some good quality extra-virgin olive oil until a somewhat thick, even emulsion is formed.

Toss your greens lightly with this vinaigrette - with some sauteed fish, this makes a fine light luncheon. With some toasted almonds or cashews and some Point Reyes Blue Cheese, it makes a good starter course for a dinner.

Politically Correct Wine?

2008-12-06T07:53:00.000-08:00

"You HAVE to go to Zuccardi Winery when you're in Argentina!"

My new friend Hannah was very insistent! I wanted to know what the big deal was ...

"All of their wines are great! No mediocre wines!"

A good recommendation ... but what else ...?

"They educate all their workers. All the vineyard workers go to school after their shifts are completed. The head of the company wants them all to have at least a high school education. It's unheard of, especially in South America."

OK ... now THIS was something out of the ordinary!

Well, Zuccardi was the first winery we visited in Argentina. A pristine setting, meticulously cared-for equipment, and as promised, great wines. Some nice olive oil too - very earthy, robust, and forthright.

But what about the workers?

"Yeah, they take good care of everyone 'ere. Nice folks t'work for." This was the information I was able to get out of our tour guide, Harry, an Englishman. Didn't get much else out of him or anyone else there, so for now at least I'll have to go with what I've been told.

And if we keep our fingers crossed, maybe we'll see some of Zuccardi's fine Malbec Port for sale in the States soon!

Last of the season's corn + fresh chilies

2008-10-27T11:10:00.000-07:00

Each year, it seems that corn is available later and later into the season. I guess this is a natural result of our overwhelming dependence on maize. The recipe included here makes use of corn, plus the eminently seasonable Poblano chilies, for a versatile side dish:

Roasted Corn and Poblano Relish

Serves 4

Ingredients:
2 Poblano Chiles
1 red bell pepper
2 ears corn
1 tsp. rice bran oil
3 Tb. Chopped shallots
3 Tb. Minced garlic
1 bunch fresh cilantro, fine chopped
½ cup olive oil
1/3 cup sherry vinegar
Salt and pepper, to taste

Directions:
1. Roast the chiles and pepper over an open flame. Sweat them in a bowl covered with plastic, then peel/seed them. Dice the chiles and peppers, place in a fresh bowl.
2. Rub the husked/de-silked corn with oil and sear over an open flame (OPTIONAL: Roast in a very hot oven until somewhat browned). Cut the kernels off the cob.
3. Mix together the diced chiles, corn kernels, and all the rest of the ingredients.

On Staffing

2008-09-12T10:42:00.000-07:00

I started my business as many caterers do. I was intent on doing everything myself - purchasing, finances, marketing, service, preparation ... I would have total control over every aspect, with the utmost attention to each detail. And so, like many caterers before me, I soon found myself well on the way to a padded cell.

I learned the value of delegating. I began hiring servers to help me with events attended by more than 3-4 guests. This help enabled me to stay focused on my area of expertise - the cuisine.

Re-defining my efforts in creating my cuisine was the next phase. Like most chefs, I've made many contacts over the years. One lady I knew impressed me with her professionalism and attention to detail. She quickly became my right-hand-woman both in the prep kitchen and on-site at events, whenever food needed to be produced in larger quantities than I was able to handle by myself.

Next came team-building. I found myself relying strongly on a core crew of 4-5 people. Having spent years in various corporate kitchen management positions, no one had to tell me about the value of staff meetings. We had a critical staff meeting in early August, which set the stage for successful events (and very happy clients!) as the weeks rolled on.

And the next step? Expanding the crew and sending out groups of top-quality teams to handle multiple events on the same day ...

Grill Recipes from Joey Altman

2008-07-31T14:18:00.001-07:00

I recently had the opportunity to work with Joey Altman - we were cooking on the grill for annual BBQ held by the San Francisco Professional Food Society, a non-profit organization dedicated to helping connect Bay Area food professionals. After the event, Joey was cool enough to provide recipes for the marinades and side dishes we served that day ...

Honey Mustard Glaze
1qt. honey
1qt. Dijon mustard
2 cups whole grain mustard
2 cups yellow mustard
2 cups brown sugar
1 cup finely minced garlic
1 cup olive oil
3 cups apple cider vinegar
½ cup chile powder
¼ cup ground black pepper
½ cup salt

Whisk everything together.

Pomegranate Marinade

2 qts. Pomegranate juice
1 cup chopped garlic
1 cup roughly chopped rosemary
¼ cup kosher salt
¼ cup ground black pepper

Whisk everything together.

Thai Grilled Prawns with Emerald Noodles

36 large, shell-on shrimp (about 2 pounds)
1/2 cup chopped fresh mint
1/2 cup chopped cilantro
1/4 cup chopped basil
1/4 cup thinly sliced Serrano chilies (3 to 4 chiles)
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons fresh lime juice (about 1 lime)
1 tablespoon minced garlic (about 6 small cloves)
1 teaspoon granulated sugar
8 ounces cappelini
1 recipe Emerald Sauce (see below)
12 eight-inch wooden skewers soaked in water for 20 minutes

Use a serrated knife to cut the shrimp lengthwise along the back of the shell—not all the way through—to butterfly the shrimp. Rinse and drain the shrimp and put into a bowl. Add 1/4 cup of mint, 1/4 cup of cilantro, and all of the basil, chilies, olive oil, lime juice, garlic, and sugar. Toss well to coat the shrimp. Put three shrimp on each skewer, threading them through about one-third and two-thirds down the length of the shrimp to hold them in their natural “c” shape.

Cook the cappelini until al dente in plenty of salted, boiling water according to package directions. Drain and transfer to a large bowl. Coat with the Emerald Sauce, tossing with two spoons until the noodles are evenly coated.

Grill the shrimp over a medium-hot barbecue until they are cooked through, 3 to 4 minutes per side. Mound the noodles on 6 plates, twisting them into a nest. Serve 2 shrimp skewers crisscrossed atop the noodles. Garnish with the remaining mint and cilantro.

Emerald Sauce

1 bunch Cilantro, with stems
1 bunch Mint leaves
1 bunch Basil leaves
1/2 cup lime juice
1/4 cup rice wine vinegar
1/4 cup peanuts
3 jalapenos, seeded
1/4 cup ginger
1 tablespoon garlic
1 tablespoon sugar
1 cup peanut oil
1/4 cup sesame oil
salt and pepper to taste

Puree all ingredients in blender until smooth and mix with pasta. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Garnish with red pepper strips and chopped peanuts.

Roasted Spiced Chicken Drumsticks with Pequillo Pepper Sauce

'Pimento del Pequillo de Lodosa'--the red 'Pequillo' pepper-- is a common ingredient throughout the Basque Country. Grown close to the Ebro River in southern Navarra, they are smaller than American sweet bell peppers, and are slightly piquant. They are triangular in shape, ending in a point. Once harvested, they are roasted over beach wood fires, peeled and jarred in their own juices. 'Pequillos' can be found jarred or tinned in specialty shops. They benefit from the Spanish equivalent to the 'appellation controle' (the 'denomincion de origen), so if you find that on the label, you will have the real thing. You can substitute small red bell peppers or very mild red chilies.

2 # chicken drumsticks, (can also use chicken wings)
¼ cup olive oil
3 tablespoons minced garlic
2 tablespoons pimenton (smoked Spanish paprika made from the pequillo chile)
2 tablespoons ground cumin
2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons kosher salt

In a large bowl coat the chicken with the oil and spices. Let marinate for at least 2 hours.

Preheat oven to 375º
Place drumsticks on a baking tray and bake for 25-30 minutes, to a golden-brown. Remove the chicken legs from the oven and transfer to a warm serving platter.
Serve with pequillo pepper sauce on the side or drizzled over the chicken. Garnish with cilantro leaves.

Pequillo Pepper Sauce

1 cup pequillo peppers or roasted red bell peppers skinned and seed
2 cloves of garlic
juice of 1 lemon
1 teaspoon of pimento
4 saltine crackers
1 cup olive oil
salt and fresh ground pepper

Puree ingredients in a blender until smooth. Season to taste with salt and pepper

American ideas, British ingredients

2008-06-15T13:36:00.000-07:00

I go into peoples' houses all the time to create meals - but never in another country. I recently had fun making some hors d'oeuvres for friends of mine who I stayed with in England.

Spicy Sausages and Candied-citrus Quark on Crostini, with Field Greens in a Citrus-reduction Vinaigrette

Ingredients:

1 loaf baguette

3 links spicy sausage (when at home, I like to buy the smokin' Habanero Chicken sausages at Piedmont Grocery)

8 ounces quark (at home, Petaluma's Spring Hill is an excellent source for this - in England, I found it at Sainsbury's, the local equivalent of Safeway)

1 each lemons, limes, oranges, and grapefruits

1 bag field greens

extra-virgin olive oil

1/3 cup granulated sugar

salt and pepper

Directions:

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.

Prepare the Crostini: cut the baguette into thin slices, on the bias. Toss in a large bowl with extra virgin olive oil, just enough to evenly (but lightly) coat each piece of bread. Lay out on a sheet pan, sprinkle lightly and evenly with salt and pepper, then bake until golden and crispy - about 20-25 minutes. When done, set aside and allow to cool down.

Prepare the sausages: heat about 1 Tb. of extra-virgin olive oil in a pan over medium-high heat. Sear the sausages until browned on both sides - then transfer to the oven. (It's easiest to use an oven-safe pan - if you have a cast-iron pan and good solid oven mitts, this is best.) Cook until the sausages are firm, about 15-20 minutes. Allow to cool down - when cool enough to handle, slice into thin rounds.

Prepare the Candied Citrus zest + Quark: wash all the fruits, and dry thoroughly with a paper towel. Using a channel zester (not a Micro-plane!), zest all the fruits, collecting the zest in a small bowl. Set the fruits aside. Add the sugar plus an equal amount of water to a small sauce pan - stir in the sugar to dissolve it, then bring the sugar water to a boil over high heat. Once it starts to boil, add the zest, mix it in, and turn off the heat immediately. Let the zest sit in the syrup for 15-20 minutes. Drain the zest through a colander - discard the syrup (the syrup can be saved, if you like - it can be used as a glaze for certain desserts). Spread the drained, poached zest onto a lined sheet pan (if you don't line the pan, you'll be cursing later as you try to scrape candied zest of the pan). Place in the oven, allow to bake for 10-15 minutes, moving the zest around every 3-5 minutes to encourage even cooking (and prevent excessive sticking - some will stick in any event). The zest should be crispy and very lightly browned. Allow to cool - then remove from the pan, chop roughly, and mix into the quark.

Prepare the Citrus-reduction Vinaigrette: have a colander ready over a large bowl. Trim the rind away from the zested citrus fruits. Using a small serrated knife, cut away the fruits from the rinds - these fruit pieces (these sections are known as supremes). Catch all the juices into the bowl as you work. When done, set aside the citrus sections. Transfer the citrus juices to a small sauce-pan - reduce these juices over medium heat until you have a syrup (be careful! a few extra minutes could leave you with a scorched product, be vigilant). Transfer this syrup to a large bowl and allow to cool to room temperature. Season the citrus syrup with salt and pepper, then whisk in extra-virgin olive oil until you have a vinaigrette - make sure it has enough oil or it'll be too acidic to enjoy.

For presentation: top each crostini with a dab of Candied-citrus Quark, then a slice of Spicy Sausage. Toss the salad greens with the Citrus-reduction Vinaigrette, and place in the center of a plate (with the crostinis arranged around it), with citrus supremes arranged over the salad.

Smoke 'em if ya got 'em ....

2008-04-30T09:48:00.000-07:00

Like most guys, I like new kitchen toys ... but only if it's something I'm going to use on a regular basis. This is what has kept me, for years now, from buying a smoker.

Smokers have become common in recent years but it wasn't always so. When I first started grilling, smoker units were typically found only in certain hardware stores that catered to grilling enthusiasts. Usually, one had to order a smoker by mail. Nowadays, most hardware stores carry them and there are a number of reliable versions.

But I still couldn't bring myself to actually buy one. I've used a big old Weber kettle grill for years and it has served me faithfully. When I read about how to have a kettle grill double as a smoker, I had to try it.

I also had never come to love the ultra-efficiency of commercial, electric smokers. They're easy to use ... you put the wood chips in the appropriate slot, the meat in the racks, plug it in and turn it on. Set the time and temperature, then walk away and let it do it's work. They work like a charm but there's something a little too easy about them ... there's no uncertainty or individuality involved in the cooking process. I like the messy involvement of stoking the coals and tending the meat. Here's my method for doing just that ...

Start by soaking the wood chips. I prefer apple-wood or hickory. Alder wood is good too, but is most often used with salmon. Soak the chips in water with some apple juice mixed in for a sweeter finish, or some soy sauce for a slightly darker glaze.
For the coals, use real mesquite wood charcoal, preferably by Lazzari. A friend of mine once told me that "regular" charcoal briquets use pulped bits of rubber tires and other junk. After having inhaled plenty of toxic smoke while working for cheap caterers who won't spring for real mesquite, I can tell you ... this is true.
While the chips soak, start the coals. Some people love tons of lighter fluid, others use the "chimney-starter" method. I am quickly becoming more fond of the chimney method, as it means fewer chemicals in with the smoke. Let the lit coals ash over almost 100% - they will need to burn for several hours so don't let them burn too fast!
Just before the coals are ready, get the drip pan ready. An aluminum half-roasting pan filled with liquid must be placed under the meat as it smokes to prevent flare-ups, if the meat is going directly onto the grill (more on this later). For the liquid, use the wood-chip soaking liquid. Get two large stainless steel bowls + a colander ready. Pour the wood chips into the colander set over one of the bowls. Set the colander with chips into the other bowl to let the chips keep draining off liquid. Don't worry about having too much liquid. If the meat will be smoking for a while, you'll likely need to refill the drip pan to keep it from scorching.
By now, you should be ready to go, with meat ready, coals nearly white-hot, wood chips pre-soaked and drained, drip pan + liquid standing by. Grab a pair of long metal tongs and a long, grill-sturdy spatula and be ready to work carefully during the next steps ...
Using the long spatula, divide the pile of coals into two equal mounds, moved to the sides of the kettle grill. Drop the aluminum drip pan into the space between the piles of hot coals and quickly fill it with the soaking liquid, as full as you can (but try not to spill any water onto the coals!).
Get ready to work very quickly now. Have the chips, wire grill cover, and meat readily at hand. Sprinkle the soaked chips onto the hot coals. Place the grill cover the top, and place the meat onto the grill, directly over the drip pan.
By now, the chips should be smoking great guns. Make sure all the vents on the kettle (and the kettle cover) are open all the way. The smoke will quickly inhibit the coals if there's not lots of circulation (don't worry, the meat will pick up plenty of smoky flavor - the smoke won't be "lost"). Cover the grill and let 'er go. Plenty of smoke will be generated, so make sure you're on good terms with your neighbors.
It will probably be necessary to uncover the grill every 30-45 minutes to get the coals to revive a bit. After 1-2 hours, it will likely be necessary to poak the coals to keep them lively. Not all of the chips will be smoking, it will be necessary to move the "dead" chips onto live coals to keep the smoke going. (I said it's not the most efficient process, but it is fun!)
For poultry - Chicken can take up to 1-2 hours for breasts and thighs, 3 hours or so for a whole bird. Turkey parts take somewhat longer. Whole turkeys may require an infusion of fresh coals and chips and will likely take at least 4 hours.
For red meats - Pork ribs and loins take about 2 hours. Ribs can get dried out and must be marinated thoroughly ahead of time. Lamb is excellent when smoked - a whole leg of lamb will go for about 3-4 hours, individual lamb chops for about an hour. Beef is not often smoked, except for brisket (which takes a VERY long time).
For seafood - scallops and shrimp will smoke quickly, in about 30-45 minutes. Fish can smoke for about 45-60 minutes.
Please remember that all times are APPROXIMATE and will vary greatly with your product - both the coals and the meat!

On Aioli

2008-03-03T13:24:00.000-08:00

I didn't really appreciate Aioli until I started working at the Lark Creek Inn. At my Garde Manger station, I was responsible for making a fresh Aioli at least every other day. The standard was our classic Lemon-Pepper Aioli, a dollop of which was served on our freshly-made crab cakes. The "Lemon" came from fresh lemon juice, and the "Pepper" from coarsely ground black pepper, that we ground in a big old machine that we kept in our dry-goods shed near the restaurant.

Later, as the menus changed, I learned to make Aiolis using Sun-dried Tomatoes, Chipotle Chiles, Lime Juice, and Saffron. The knowledge stood me in good stead when I started work for other caterers - I'd occasionally be told "The client wants Sage Aioli to go with the shrimp for her wedding reception. Go and make a Sage Aioli ... make it taste good!" I'm proud to say that I never had any complaints. Here's a recipe for a Green Onion Aioli that I served with a Tempura recently...

Green Onion Aioli

Makes about 1 cup

Ingredients:

1 clove garlic
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
the greens from 1 spring onion - don't use the whites!
1 egg yolk
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
about 1/2 cup corn or canola oil (+1 tablespoon extra, for sauteeing)
about 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
salt and black pepper

Directions:

Cut the greens from the spring onion into roughly 1/2" pieces. Saute them in the tablespoon of corn oil over high heat, briefly. When the greens are a brighter color and have begun to soften, set them on a plate to cool down. Allow them to cool to nearly room temperature before proceeding (if you use them when they're still too hot, they'll scramble the egg yolk).
mince the garlic finely. As you mince it, sprinkle it with a little salt - the salt will pick up the oils from the garlic, making for a more flavorful product.
Add the minced garlic (+ salt it was sprinkled with) to the body of a food processor. Add the lemon juice, mustard, egg yolk, and a pinch of black pepper. Have the oils ready in two separate vessels from which you can pour steadily - don't try to pour oils directly from a large container!
Run the food processor until the yolk starts to become frothy and pale.
Add the corn/canola oil in a thin, steady stream. Go slowly - if the oil won't emulsify into the yolk mixture, the Aioli is broken (start again). The oil should incorporate gradually into the yolk. As the emulsion becomes thicker, listen carefully to the pitch of the motor as the mixture thickens ... the sound should become slightly louder and deeper as the emulsion thickens.
When all the corn/canola oil has been added, add green onions. Let them mix thoroughly into the emulsion.
When the Aioli is smooth, add the extra-virgin olive oil (again, in a slow, steady stream). This will lend some extra flavor. Remove to a container with a spatula - keep under refrigeration ... it will keep for no more than 3 days, maximum.

A Misunderstood Vegetable

2008-01-14T10:49:00.001-08:00

I discovered Broccoli Rabe (also called Rapini) on my very last night of living in the Bronx. For my farewell meal before departing Out West for California, I had asked my parents to take me to a good old-school type Italian restaurant on the Bronx's Arthur Avenue. We ended up at one of the very best restaurants in the area - Dominic's, a neighborhood institution.

Dominic's is a place for serious eaters only. Patrons sit at long wooden tables, eating family-style. There are no menus - the waiter will tell you what's available that night. No checks or credit cards taken - cash on the barrel only. No individual plates - everything is served on platters. No reservations, either - strictly first-come, first-served.

I remember the stuffed breast of veal. I remember the big platter of steamed mussels in tomato sauce. I remember the roasted potatoes. But mostly, I remember the Broccoli Rabe.

It was a revelation. All the flavor of regular American broccoli, but without the sulphur-y stink. A taste of bitterness and complexity that even Chinese broccoli didn't have. And with a topping of garlic, sauteed in good Italian olive oil, it was incomparable.

After coming out to California, I spent years searching for this vegetable. It pleased me no end to discover that I could get Broccoli Rabe regularly at Berkeley Bowl and Whole Foods. After that, I worked for a while to re-create that Arthur Avenue taste. The recipe is included below .. I think it's as close to Dominic's as one is likely to get ...

Broccoli Rabe (Rapini) with Garlic

Serves 6

2# broccoli rabe (also called rapini), washed and trimmed
1 tablespoon olive extra-virgin olive oil
2-3 cloves garlic, sliced thin
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon ground black pepper
¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes

1. Fill a pot with water; bring to a boil over high heat. Add broccoli rabe, return water to a boil, cook until broccoli rabe is tender but still has some firmness (about 3-4 minutes). Drain broccoli rabe, chop coarsely, and set aside.
2. In a large skillet, hear olive oil over medium heat. Add garlic, cook until it just starts to become golden (about 2-3 minutes). Add broccoli rabe, salt, pepper, and red pepper. Cook for 1-2 more minutes, serve.

Mama's Latkes

2007-12-18T19:23:00.001-08:00

Every year, since I was a small boy, I've enjoyed the latkes made by my mother. At Hanukkah, all the moms in the neighborhood would get together at the community center - each one would bring a platter of their homemade latkes. My mother's always stood head-and-shoulders above the rest.

In 1991, I found myself living in California. I was working as an administrative assistant at a small company in Palo Alto, and I found myself discussing my mother's latkes with one of my co-workers, a lady from the Midwest. This lady had moved out here from Indiana not long after I'd arrived from New York ... and she had an interest in, of all things, latkes! Upon her request, I gladly called my mom in the Bronx to get her recipe.

"Mom, I need your recipe for latkes".

"What, you're going to make latkes in your apartment for Hanukkah?"

"No, I need the recipe for someone at work."

"Someone? What kind of someone in California wants your mother's recipe from the Bronx?"

"Well, there's a lady I met at work who's interested in making latkes, she really likes them but never had a recipe."

"Ah! A girl! You met a girl out there in California, eh?"

"Yes, she's a coworker. Now, about that recipe ..."

"This girl who likes latkes, what is she like?"

"She's nice. Anyway, I've got a pen and paper, so tell me ..."

"This nice girl ... is she Jewish?"

"No. She's from Indiana. I don't think they have Jewish people there. Now, about the latke recipe ..."

"Alright, already ... here's how it goes ..."

Latkes

3 large (or 6-7 small) white potatoes, unpeeled, cut into medium chunks. (Use Russets or something similar - DON'T use red potatoes, Peruvian purples, Yukon Golds, or any such exotic tubers!)
2 eggs
1 Tablespoon salt
1 white or yellow onion, cut into medium chunks
1/4 - 1/2 Cup Matzoh meal
1/4 teaspoon baking powder

Put the potatoes and onions into a blender with about 1 cup of water. Blend on low speed until the mixture is an even consistency.
pour the mixture into a colander set over a bowl. Let stand for 1-2 minutes, then pour off the excess water. At the bottom of the bowl, you'll find the thick starch from the potatoes - DON'T DISCARD THIS!
Put the potato-onion puree back into the bowl with the potato starch; stir to mix in the starch, then stir in the eggs, salt, matzoh meal, and baking powder.
In a cast-iron pan (or other heavy-bottomed pan), heat about 1/2 an inch of corn or vegetable oil over medium-high heat. When hot, spoon in about 2 tablespoons worth of the mixture into the oil - be careful! When the edges become golden brown, turn over carefully (use two spatulas) - when the second side is golden brown, remove to a plate or platter lined with paper towels to drain. Serve with apple sauce and sour cream ... exotic toppings like smoked salmon and caviar are optional.

... And the Nice Girl From Indiana Who Likes Latkes? We've been married for 13 years now!

At the Oakland Flower Market

2007-11-11T20:26:00.001-08:00

I'm no expert on horticulture. Having grown up in a 17th floor apartment in the Bronx, I've got a certified brown thumb. But as a caterer facing the advent of the holiday season, I've had to familiarize myself with the world of flowers (both fresh and dried), floral ornaments, vases, and arrangements ... and fast!

My trip to the Market was planned at the very end of their day - they close at 3 pm, and I got there at 2:15. I didn't want to contend with thronging hordes of merchants, but I was also afraid of finding nothing left to choose from. Fortunately, I found a wide selection to choose from ... perhaps a little TOO wide!

I needed some dried ornaments for some buffet tables that I wanted to flesh out, so some dried grasses and gourds were an easy choice. But I needed some attractive items for some small vases. I wound up purchasing some brown Pom-Poms, some Heather, and some golden roses with an exotic name that I've since forgotten ("Casbah" or something similarly evocative).

Flowers in hand, it was time for a trip to the register ... and a little sticker shock. Flowers need to be transported from as far away as South America, and skyrocketing gas prices ensure a hefty fee even for wholesale horticulture. Still it was less expensive than farming out the whole job to a florist ... and, admittedly, more fun.